
February/March. 2025 Kenya. In a land synonymous with ever-present clawed and sharp-toothed danger, it comes as something of a surprise to see flocks of looks-like-a-chicken category birds wandering around quite openly, I’m thinking of Vulturine Guineafowl and Helmeted Guineafowl. You don’t see them in ones and twos, instead they’re always in large, tightly gathered family groups, on a search for seeds, leaves, bulbs, and insects at ground level. They obviously know what they’re doing having been around since time began, Helmeted Guineafowl in much of sub-Saharan Africa and Vulturine Guineafowl mostly in east Africa including arid parts of north and east Kenya. And that’s where I enjoyed them both.
They belong in the Galliformes order of birds which puts them somewhere distantly related to quail and pheasants, and even chickens at a stretch. And size-wise they’re about the heft of a small turkey. They’d probably make a decent meal, Elspeth Huxley in The Flame Trees of Thika, her autobiographical account of growing up in early-twentieth century Kenya, describes hunting them for the pot.
It is hard to resist being both charmed and amused by the sight of guineafowl. They show little or no fear of vehicles and seemed to only resignedly scatter on our approach.

The Helmeted Guineafowl, so called on account of its prehistoric, fleshy crest, is rather like a large black ball on legs. Its plumage is marked all over with ‘tear along the dotted line’ white spots and its face has a dinosaur-era look about it.

It was the Vulturine Guineafowl that made my days. That crisp, smart, pin-stripe plumage contrasting with the vulturine bare-skin head makes a most unlikely combination. But maybe not so unlikely, because there’s probably a city banker or two somewhere who looks and dresses just like that, bare, jowly head and all. Even down to the remnant tuft behind the ears.

For all their apparent vulnerability they survive as a species. But I asked our guide who or what preys on guineafowl and he replied Bat-eared Foxes. Well of course. We saw a few of them withdrawn into the shade by day but no doubt ready to stalk and take a bird or two from a flock. They are attractive little canids whose prime habitat is short grass plains, areas with bare ground and semi-arid scrubland – an exact match for guineafowl.
